NARVA, Estonia â The conversion of factories into cultural venues rarely raises eyebrows these days, but the Kreenholm complex here is not just any relic of industry. Once the worldâs largest cotton mill and a poster child of Soviet might, it stands on an island in the river that now makes up the European Unionâs eastern border. Russia is just a stoneâs throw away, leaving Narva â where nearly 90 percent of the population is ethnic Russian â caught between two worlds.
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